Direct YouTube Link: https://youtu.be/NcSSzyv5sR8
Begin by removing any cosmetic hardware unmount the pump from the base by removing the four, 1226B nuts. Remove the CH43P, clamp and hose by gently twisting while removing the pump assembly and flapper valve note the orientation of the flapper valve hinges edge in some earlier base assemblies, the housing spacers part 1226C are separate place the handle into the socket and raise the piston to its highest position. Using the one eighth inch allen wrench loosen the 1211PL piston yoke set screw also remove the 1210A Cotter pin and pull out the 1216 clevis pin using a three eight inch wrench on the flat of the 1212 piston rod unthread, the 1211PL piston yoke, press the piston towards the bottom of the housing using a pair of pliers or equivalent. Remove the piston from the pump assembly.
Remove the 1214 cartridge by using us deep well seven, eight-inch socket. Next remove the seal and O ring from the cartridge and discard using a flat blade screwdriver, remove the 1232MS O ring from the piston before installing the new piston O ring. Make certain the channel is clear of debris. Add a small amount of the supplied Superlube from the repair kit package, using a small amount of PTFE or electrical tape. Wrap the threads of the piston rod to protect the seal upon reinstalling examine the inner walls of the housing for signs of scoring. Use light sandpaper to smooth if necessary.
Re-install the piston install, the new 1214, eight shaft seal, large side down over the piston rod. Next re-install the 1214B O ring and 1214 cartridge into the housing. Remove the tape and tighten the 1214 cartridge to 30 inch pounds. Next install the 1211PL using care to line the flat on the shaft with the Allen screw key way, using a pair of channel type pliers loosen the 1217 discharge cap remove the spring and ball note. The large end of the spring is facing downward on this side of the pump, inspect the ball seat area and clean if necessary, replace the 1201 ball and 1202 gasket use care not to overtighten when reassembling reinstall the 1210 handle socket with the clevis pin and Cotter key using the channel pliers loosen the 1204, be approximately four revolutions using the valve handle, lift the valve assembly from the body note, the orientation of the inlet LWS spring small in down clean the inlet valve area of old grease or debris installed the nude 1201 check ball and spring.
Remove the gasket and disassemble the inlet valve body with a flat blade screwdriver remove and replace the set of inlet valve O rings. Add a small amount of super lube to the O ring surfaces reassemble the inlet valve body replace the 1202 gasket and reinstall. The inlet valve assembly gently tighten the 1204B valve cap using two nine 16 wrenches loosen the discharge flange assembly. Remove the C253 joker valve and clean the ceiling surfaces of both housing and discharged fitting when installing the new joker valve note that the slit stands vertical on edge, irrelevant to the position of the discharge fitting angle. Re-install the discharge fitting and tighten bolts to where the outer edges of the flange touch use the two seven 16 wrenches to loosen the 1226. Be nuts to allow for bowl removal, remove the RNI shoulder washers, and the bowl will lift off, remove the old 1234 gasket and clean both surfaces of the base as well as the bowl reassemble in the reverse order using care, not to overtighten re-install the flapper valve hindering edge closest to the bowl. As previously mentioned, if your base incorporates the 1226C washers, you don't need to add these. Remount and install a PHII pump assembly to the base.
Direct YouTube Link: https://youtu.be/kpIAGbRHCOQ
Using the channel pliers remove the 1203W from the housing. When the inlet valve is in the dry position, the 1203W helps defeat the negative pressure Build up in the housing by allowing air to enter. Using the recommended drill bit extract the seal cartridge from the 1203W housing by gently pressing from the outside inward remove any debris that may have accumulated inside the valve body. Visually inspect the valve cartridge and clean as necessary in the event that check valve cartridge becomes dismantled reassemble. In this order, gently press the cartridge into the valve body evenly. Using the recommended socket continue to press the seal cartridge until fully seated. Re-install the 1203W and gently tighten.
Direct YouTube Link: https://youtu.be/O7rIDaI8RSw
If a span or wrench isn't available, two, three quarter inch nuts can be used to fabricate a tool to aid in the 1249 base plugs removal using the two, three quarter inch wrenches. Tighten the nuts in opposite directions. This causes the nuts to lock into position, fully insert the tool and remove the base plug. Add a small amount of PTFE thread sealant to the new plug and re-install in the reverse order.
Direct YouTube Link: https://youtu.be/j8joeh25bks
Begin by removing the CH43P snap clamp. Remove the hose and unthread the 1236E bowl elbow using the channel pliers loosen and remove the bowl. Spud nut remove the flat and rubber washer from the bowl carefully. Remove the spud by gently pressing downward when installing the new spud assembly note, the notched edges. These are used to aid an installation, install the new rubber and flat washer while holding the threads of the bell portion. While installing the nut portion, it may be helpful to use a flat blade screwdriver or equivalent to hold the inner wall of the fitting. Use the channel pliers to complete the process. Re-install the 1236E inlet elbow and connect the hose, reattach the snap clamp and secure with the channel pliers.
Direct YouTube Link: https://youtu.be/8T5s4uJ5RHc
00:05.94: The Raritan Electroscan is a U. S Coast Guard certified Type One marine sanitation device for use for uninspected as well as inspected 00:17.04 vessels registered length of 65 ft or 19.7 m, and under the unit must be operated in areas that are not declared 00:30.88 a federal no discharge zone by the U. S Environmental Protection Agency. This is applicability for all U. S. Territorial waters inside the three mile limit. 00:41.51: Other countries check with your local authorities. The Electroscan is designed for recreational use and accommodates most marine toilets. With a maximum flush 00:55.72: volume of 1.5 US gallons or 5.7 liters. The flushing action of the toilet discharges waste into the first chamber of the treatment tank. Here, 01:11.10: the waste is macerated and receives its first treatment. Specially coated electrode plates create an electrical field and convert the saltwater into hydrochloric 01:22.55: acid, a powerful bactericide. Once the treatment solution reacts with bacteria and waste, it reverts back to salt and water. The next time the toilet is flushed 01:35.76: and new, untreated waste enters the first chamber. Some of the treated discharge enters the second chamber, while the new waste is being treated in the first chamber, the contents 01:46.84: of the second chamber are stirred and treated again. Each successive flush moves the previous toilet discharge through the Electroscan and eventually overboard. When 01:59.46: the discharge enters the marine environment, virtually all the pathogens have been eliminated. The Electroscan is based on salt. The addition of assault feed system may 02:14.65: be necessary if the toilets in flesh water is not ocean grade salinity. With the automatic injection kit. Salinity is monitored by the units control panel 02:26.86: and salt solution is automatically added as needed. A small amount of water supplied by the boats Pressurized Freshwater system maintains the water level in the tank 02:40.76: and continues to generate saturate salt solution from the solar salt. During the processing mode, the Electroscan control can call for salt to be injected into 02:53.48: the treatment unit as needed for proper operation. The Electroscan system is the most popular U. S. Coast Guard Type I MSD system available. The units power 03:07.81: consumption has been reduced by 36% at only 1.2 ampere hours of power per cycle. The Electroscan generates its own natural 03:19.63: disinfectant from saltwater and can be interfaced with many electric or manual toilets for a simple one step operation.
Direct YouTube Link: https://youtu.be/LUEH4PKHj1U
00:57.74: To remove the seat and cover, begin by removing the bolts and nuts from the rear of the bowl. 01:06.00: Remove the screws from the seat and cover. 01:22.00: Note that the hinges are different in appearance and function. 01:31.00: Separate the to support arms to remove the piston from the housings. The pistons have a round bearing portion on one side and a flat support structure on the other. 01:55.00: Also note that the Pistons are marked individually for their respective side. 02:10.00: When reassembling, make certain, not to overtighten the screws.
Direct YouTube Link: https://youtu.be/j8joeh25bks
00:53.04 Begin by removing the main power stud and hardware Noting the position of each of the components. 01:13.01 Remove the input output board and gently lift to remove from its mounting location, 01:20.01 remove the microprocessor board by gently lifting 01:26.00remove, the main positive terminal. 01:30.00 Next using the pliers, remove the U-clips from the side rail heat sinks by gently lifting. There are a total of seven clips that need to be removed for this process. 01:47.01 Remove the end cap screws from the terminal end, only. 01:59.01 Gently remove the motherboard from the casing and remove the three insulator standoffs. 02:11.57 Prepare the new motherboard by cleaning, the surfaces of the heat sink on the MOSFETs. 02:20.01 Add a small amount of the thermal compound to the number 7, MOSFET. 02:36.01 Install, the new control board into the housing. 02:47.01 Gently press each MOSFET into the side rail. 02:57.00 Install the U- clips short side closest to the component. 03:03.01 Make certain the MOSFET is fully seated against the side rail for proper heat transfer. 03:13.01 Reinstall the positive stud and insulator components into the end cap. 04:00.01 Reinstall, the end cap and grounding screw. 04:07.01 Carefully align the input output board as well as the microprocessor and firmly receive them in place. 04:23.01 Reinstall the two mounting screws for the input output board.
Direct YouTube Link: https://youtu.be/KpBxfNlvtfY
00:48.64 Unmount the pump and remove any covers that may be relevant 00:53.99 00:54.00 Release. the locking clips and remove the fittings and hose. 01:01.25 01:01.96 Loosen before 5/16 bolts. 01:13.99 01:14.00 Remove the set. Screw cover 01:16.99 01:17.00 Gently rotate the housing until the screw aligns. 01:22.00 01:22.05 Gently loosen the set screw and gently remove the pump assembly from the motor. 01:38.00 01:38.01 Remove the screws and separate the pump assembly. 01:47.98 01:47.99 Remove the screws from the bearing plate and install the new diaphragm assembly. 02:05.90 02:05.91 Use caution not to overtighten the screws. 02:15.90 02:15.91 Remove and discard the middle housing. 02:25.00 02:25.01 Remove the four cone seals from the upper housing. 02:34.90 02:35.01 Insert the housing screws. 02:42.00 02:42.01 Partially install the cone seals tapered end down. 02:55.98 02:55.99 Align, the bolts with the new middle housing and install. 03:05.75 03:05.76 Install, the lower housing, assuring the bearing access port is aligned properly. 03:20.30 03:20.31 Reinstall the diaphragm pump carefully, aligning the flat on the motor shaft with the bushing set screw. 03:34.00 03:34.01 Gently tighten the set screw for now and re-secure the bolts on the pump head. 03:42.00 03:42.01 Using a torque wrench, tighten the bolts to 50 inch pounds. 03:49.00 03:49.01 Finish tightening the set screw and install the rubber plug. 03:56.00 03:56.01 Remove and replace the inlet and discharge fitting O-rings and reinstall. 04:12.00
Direct YouTube Link: https://youtu.be/M9bN3O-xWig
00:54.44 Using the 7/16” wrench, remove the bowl mounting nuts.01:03.01 Remove the motor cover by gently lifting.01:07.01 Lift the edge of the RNI shoulder washers to remove. Using a pair of pliers, gently twist to separate the hose clamp.01:16.01 Using the 7/16” wrench, remove the motor mounting bolts.01:34.01 Remove the macerator motor assembly. 01:38.01 Note how the housing indexing key affiliates with the base keyway.01:50.51 Using pliers, stabilize the impeller while loosening the macerator nut.02:01.45 The Macerator housing and impeller can now be removed.02:17.01 Remove the seal plate from the motor housing.02:24.01 Using a flat Blade screwdriver remove the motor shaft seal. 02:32.46 Clean the seal mounting surface before the new component is installed.02:42.96 Add a small amount of water to this area02:46.01 Install the new seals, spring side up and flush with the top of the seal housing.02:56.01 Install the seal leak channel pointing downward.03:02.01 Align the flat on the impeller with the flat on the motor shaft. 03:15.01 Align the keyway of the Macerator blade with the impeller capture area.03:28.01 Install the lock washer and nut by securing the impeller while tightening.03:46.01 Add a small amount of super Lube to the O-ring channel to secure in place while reassembling.04:02.01 Align the keyway to the base housing and reassemble.04:10.01 Reinstall the motor mount screws.04:17.01 Remove the gasket and clean the surface before the new part is installed.04:28.01 Loosen and remove the flange bolts to gain access to the Joker Valve.04:38.01 Clean both Inside housing, as well as discharge fitting to assure a proper seal.04:51.01 Resecure the discharge flange bolts. And remount the bowl.05:01.01 Reinstall the rinse hose. And the clamp.05:13.01 Install the new shoulder washers in the bowl using care not to overtighten